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American Fork - Limestone

23 August......

Well. I guess its Saturday – at least that’s what my calendar says….we climbed yesterday at an area called American Fork – the Membrane Wall – I guess the Membrane wall is equivalent to Bubba City or Summersville Lake at the New River Gorge – uber popular – which means uber polished, but the climbing was great none the less.

The approach was super short - maybe 100 yards, but we had to cross this icy ragging creek...I did it once with just the climbing stuff - thankfully the rocks were really sticky - and sharp...even though the fast water came up to my thighs - it was high probability, so I went back for the camera. It actually burned it was so cold, but it felt great...especially at the end of the day.

I’m really starting to feel the effects of a long trip without much substantial rest – I picked and chose my pitches yesterday – only doing 4, 3 of which were classic and the 4^th was a meager “OK”

We did meet a group from Park City who’s winter job was to dynamite for avalanches – pretty cool huh? They had an Avalanche puppy with them too!

In-between pitches - Deniz and I took what felt like a two hour power nap....me on the rope - her on our packs...

We’re staying with Tony – who we met at Maple – He lives on mountain and from his back porch – you can see a ?600 foot alpine route.

I think today we’re going to climb with Tony today at American Fork – and then venture north to SLC – Sunday is a planned rest day (hello public library) – and our final day will likely be at Little Cotton Wood – a Multi-Pitch Trad day – before I drop Deniz at the AP and start heading East.

Did I mention how much my body hurts? All is good though – because I feel like I’m really starting to get in shape/skinny – I’ve been eating a good bit of fruit – and hope to eat more once its just me again (Deniz really really like to eat well!)

The photos are – one of the best limestone routes I’ve ever done (not that I’ve done many) – License to Thrill (5.11c)

Not a bad day...actually a good one

I felt REALLY good on my projects yesterday - I'm down to one move on the one - and I got further than ever on my high ball project...I actually got the part where it was high!

A couple nights ago, I hung out with John Dickey - sup cool dude - it was great to talk to an awesome photographer -

Also - I sorta maybe might have an opportunity to get a summer internship at Yosemite - what do you guys think??? Its a bit hot to boulder in Yosemite during the summer though right?

I felt myself learning "new moves" - which doesnt happen that offen - that's right folks - the good 'ole "drop knee" - a new concept for me...its really awkward - and both have been my left knee - which is my ACL knee - not that it hurts or anything, but it doesn't have its original range of motion (I'd have to work out and stretch a new movement for it.)

Just living Life

The past week has been pretty RAD - I'm definitely falling into the climber lifestyle - its great!

I hung out with my dad in VA beach for a couple days - hitting up the VA Beach Rock gym - it was cool to climb on plastic - I don't really get much of a chance do to that - I was really psyched - I did the red sloper problem!!! - it took a few goes though.

I drove into Charlottesville Friday night and then Sat morning - Matt, Katherine and I marathoned it to the new for a day trip - It rained our entire drive there - though Endless Wall was dry in places - I was psyched to do my hardest trad route yet - What I am pretty sure is Carl's classic - The Rabbit Almost Died - it was wet - but only on the scary run-out ledge mantel... =) That night - we hit up the Chris Sharma slideshow - and then did a scary drive back to Charlottesville

Then Sunday - we drove to this crag - which is located on private property - I can't really say what its called or where it is - but its RAD! There I tried a project (for me) - I didn't do it - but I feel really close on it. I'm either going to stay here and try it the rest of the week (its rainy here today,) or drive to the New River Gorge and climb for two days with Eddie and Rachel Mellville -

OK - gonna go back to sleeping on the couch and watching movies - life is tough =)

Photo is of Matt Fanning on Harlequin

It hurts to hold my hands over my head.

23 December

Yesterday was a great day – the temps were cool, but nice in the sun – conditions were great! John Michael and I rolled up to the park around 9pm – I had passes, but he was 15 people deep in the waiting list – just as I finished an email – the park staff sounded that there were two slots left in a volunteer tour to East Mountain – We jumped at the opportunity and spent the day with two cool tour guides – Michael and his GF Stephanie.

Man – what a cool place – lots of good problems – we got to see Slash Face (Ashley – if you don’t know that problem – shame on you!) John Michael basically crushed – sending from V0 through V8 (don’t know if he did a V3?)

Lighting was horrible – actually worse than that – but I made do with what I had.

So today – I went into the park for about 5 hours – hung out with Matt and Charlotte again – Charlotte was taking a rest day – so I handed her my camera and gave her a few pointers – and then it got WINDY – it was crazy – like dust storm nasty crazy! I bailed at lunch time – headed back to the ranch – made some rice with beans – and then found Kristoph’s – a coffee shop in El Paso that has free, unrestricted internet (well – I can’t FTP, but other than that – I’m doing great)

On the drive here – I was barraged by a “herd” of tumble weeds – the one was BIG too – it was like maybe 3 feet in diameter – thankfully they all just bounced off the front of the Civic – but for a moment there – I was like….oh…….no……!

It was warm last night for the first time in forever – It was nice – I crawled out of the two sleeping bags and just used my sheet.

I’m sooooooooooooooooo incredibly pumped today – like it was hard to carry my photo gear around today – I was THAT pumped…I’m hoping to heal for tomorrow – but I dunno what’s gonna happen!

I ran again this morning – another 25 minutes – sufficient to say – I’m pretty beat up. It feels good though. Tomorrow I’m in the park again – bouldering – hopefully well rested and ready to CRUSH.

Climb Gym

Since there was snow on the ground in the deep south, I headed North for a 3 day gym trip including Pittsburgh (Climb North) and Columbus (both gyms there.)

Ohio Gyms...

Last weekend, there being snow at rocktown, I decided to drive up to Cleveland to hit the rock gym there. Its about the 2nd or 3rd closes gym to me here in WV - though we're getting a gym here in Charleston VERY soon!!!

When I was in High School - probably the mid to late 90s, I did one trip to the Cleveland Rock Gym (CRG) - it was a cool gym, good training walls for bouldering, LOADS of top rope climbing (that doesn't interest me in the least.)

It was pretty much the same rad gym as I remembered it! The place was big enough that all the screaming kids didn't really make a difference (they were mostly in the top roping range while a few brave kids came to play on the big kids wall and were pretty cool.) The problems were quite good, powerful, but varied. Open jigs was nice, which allowed for different styles/approaches to problems (I could just beast my way through some of them mrow!) - They run a good show there. The only weird thing is that they require one to belay with an ATC (after paying my $2, I passed an ATC - using one for the first time..since well...the mid 90s!) All and all, its a very worth gym which I think, was worth the four hour drive for me (assuming that rocktown and HP40 were under snow.)

Sunday, we did Kinetic Gym in Columbus. Kinetic is much smaller, but has that "hometown" feeling. At Kinetic, you're climbing WITH everyone, instead of around them. It has a nice community feel to it. The walls at Kinetic are STEEEEEEP! And what Kinetic really has going for it is all the awesome jugs and holds that are NEW and/or well maintained. Problems are thought out, but powerful (which lends itself to my style of climbing.) The "Mothership", their (in my opinion) premier wall is ?72 degrees, which is about the same as the madness cave at the red (?I think?). Totally an excellent gym!

Note this photo was from a trip about a ?month ago, not this weekend.

Some Rocktown Images...

Daily Life, Running, Eating

My Aunt and Uncle got me a George Foreman grill for christmas, so I've been using it every day for lunch, which is a chicken breast (comes frozen) - they're actually quite good, filling and very healthy! I was surprised at how easy it was for me to eat better and healthier with just a single meal (I don't get hungry etc afterwards.)

I started at target of 2200 cal a month, then dropped it to 1800, then to 1400. As I slowly tapered it, I was hoping to hit my "break point" and think that I hit it at 1200 calories on my attempted 10k run yesterday. I just crashed big time at the 8k mark. I knew it was coming ,so I looped back after 4k so I could make it to my car without walking.

I DID run a half marathon last Thursday. I saw on Wiki that people tend to train for 3 months for that. Well....I sorta off the couched it. Ran a three days doing progressive runs (and some multi-run days) - then just did it! I'm hoping to work my way up to a Marathon, maybe in march...we'll see...

Been a while...

Its been a while since Ive been blogging. I don't know why - maybe I'm just lazy or maybe I'm so burried in my training and work? No its probably that I just fear that I've fallen into another of life's "traps" - you know the whole steady job, working thing? Its really a great deal I have with my job though - working 4 - 10 hour days which gives me a 3 day weekend every weekend!

I've been running my butt off the past couple of weeks and also, have been food planning/keeping track of all my food. My problem has always been my weight. I've NEVER been skinny in my life, but, being able to scrap my way up easy to mid 5.12 has always been "good enough" for me. Well...I think that's not good enough for me any more. Mainly, because I'm running out of routes (good ones) at the easy 5.12 range to do, but more so since I'm getting older here (I'm turning 29 this year.) - I figured I may as well beat the snot out of myself, lose some weight and be a better climber.

I think that, from all the years of being heavy (though muscular) - I probably have pretty strong tendons. If I can go to be a "skinny" guy - I bet that I can crush some small holds! I know that I will likely lose enduro, which has always been my biggest strength...we'll see.

I HAVE NOT been weighing myself, because I don't want to know - honestly, but I have definitely been noticing some serious gains (well loses) looking in the mirror. Like OH WOW I'm getting skinny! My love handles are going the way of the beaver.

I've been traveling a good bit, though unfortunately, to climbing gyms since the weather has been pretty bad this season - even in Chatt, though I've made several Rocktown trips, a LRC trip, a day of climbing at the Obed....

I'll post my run and diet logs. I've been using THIS program - which is quite excellent for tracking one's caloric intake. http://spaz.ca/cronometer/

its free.